

It is an individual decision, what is relevant to you. That helps me to not swap unique coins! If you buy a coin and list the price paid, date it for historical value. Except on lookalikes (thin planchet/thick planchet) or coins with tiny letter font variations, I never use KM numbers. corner, and used to use Yeoman numbers in right top, but few use Y numbers anymore it seems. Iodine will I know, propane "stench oil" attacks copper, and who knows what is in a glue! Best regards and best results!Īs for info, I put country at lower center, date L.H. I fear vapors from some adhesives could stain or tarnish coins. You can do this too, unless you fear a coin can slip out and be damaged if handling it, especially the little ones as I mentioned. Small dime, kopeck sized coins could "walk" from the window of the 2x2 if not secured. I do keep US silver dollars and Russian 10 ruble bi-metals in unglued, unstapled 2x2s, inserted into the pages. "Flat-stapling" staplers are available to flatly crimp the wire staples. The bends in the wire DO cause convolutions in the plastic pages, but I never let that bother me. I could one day replace it with a new one, but I've been saying "next year" maybe for 40 years! I always staple above and below the coin, and the tear is not connected to stapling. One page from 1974 had a square to split on its own in about 1979, but still holds in the 2x2.

Well, I staple mine as I forever switch them around in the 20-coin plastic pages I use.
